Day 1 of My Visit to New Ulm Minnesota
New Ulm, Minnesota, has a historic significance to craft beer in Minnesota, as well as the United States. New Ulm is home to Schell’s Brewery, the second oldest family-owned brewery in America. For years, I have wanted to spend some time in this German town of 13,000 to experience the culture. So, during the Summer of Dan, I did just that. The roots of the Schell’s family have not only embedded themselves in craft beer, they are now expanding into the world of distilling with Black Frost Distilling.
I decided that I would spend two nights in New Ulm as part of my Summer of Dan series of adventures. I really like to be able to somewhat immerse myself in the energy of a place, and you can’t just do that in an afternoon. Just a short hour and a half from Saint Paul, New Ulm is an easy drive. You wind through a lot of smaller farming communities and I could see, firsthand, the results of all of the rain we have had. I drove alongside so many green fields of crops accentuated by the nearly cloudless perfectly blue sky. Between the sharp colors and my fantasy baseball podcast, I got to my hotel in what seemed like a blink of an eye.
The Microtel Inn and Suites is perfect for a solo traveler on a budget. It reminds me of my freshman dorm in college. Not a lot of space, but practical and comfortable for what I would need. I drop off my bags and then head a few minutes down the road for my podcast interview with Jace Marti at Black Frost Distillery.
Black Frost Distilling
It is quite possibly the hottest day of the year. The humidity is palpable,making the simple act of getting out of the the car to grab my podcast gear a chore. If you’ve ever been to a bachelor party where one of the drinking games involved walking through quiche, that is what the air feels like. I walk in and see the cocktail room is being prepped for the night’s festivities. In addition to a podcast interview, I am partaking in the Black Frost Distillery Field Day.
In late spring, I sent Jace a message to see whether he would be interested in being on my podcast to talk about his foray into the world of distilling. He messaged back saying that he would love to, so we got to planning. We landed on the same day as their Field Day since I was going to be staying in town. Jace has been a force in the Minnesota craft beverage world for a long time, going back to his days back with Schell’s. We have met several times over the years, and he has a wealth of knowledge about beer and spirits. I have never really sat and chatted with Jace, so I am keen to hear his tale of how Black Frost Distillery came to be.
Whiskey done the Right way
Jace comes to greet me down the hallway with a smile and energy that is welcoming. He leads me through the distillery and into their event space. I start setting up and we chat about what we want to drink during our interview. Since I normally drink beers during an interview, I am excited at the possibility of some neat pours of whiskey to keep the conversation flowing. I ask if we can do some of the whiskey and the rye and he grabs bottles from behind the bar.
Our conversation is enlightening and engaging. I could listen to Jace talk about the art of distilling for hours. From the Friday night of The Great Taste of the Midwest that sparked his fascination with spirits to his commitment to local ingredients, grown with care and purpose, it is clear to see why Black Frost Distillery is winning awards. If you want to listen to the full interview, the podcast link is below.
Black Frost Field Day
After wrapping up our interview, it is off to the taproom for a welcome cocktail and a brief tour of the distillery. The welcome cocktail is quite refreshing and fruity which is much needed on this sweltering Monday afternoon.
Jace gathers us all in the room with the large wooden barrels to begin the tour. He explains the process of distillation and talks about their column still. I am still in my infancy of understanding how whiskey is made, so all of this information is fascinating. After last summer’s visit to Louisville and some incredibly large distilleries, Black Frost seems microscopic. However, whether large or small, the process a distillery uses is pretty much the same.
Roll Out The Barrels!
One of the biggest differences between beer and whiskey is the fermentation time. Where beer will ferment for several weeks, the mash for distilling ferments for just seven days. The mash, or brewer’s beer, also sits on the grain for distilling. Beer is separated from the grain once it is done extracting the starches and sugars from the grain. Once the brewer’s beer is ready, about 8% ABV, it then goes through the column still where the alcohol is stripped from the mash. The ABV will be taken up to about 52%. Once this process is done, the liquid is ready for barrels.
At this point, Jace leads us up the stairs into the room where the liquids go into barrels. This room is not temperature-controlled. That is because as the liquid expands and contracts, it interacts with the wood. This allows for the development of color and flavors. This is the magical process that takes time.
We finish off the tour and are invited to board a school bus that will take us out to the Gieseke family farm where the grains are grown for the field tour let of the journey.Piling onto a yellow school bus takes me back to elementary school. There are so many things in life that have undergone significant changes and upgrades since 1985, but school buses are not of that ilk. They still have the tank, made with American steel-vibe that they did back in the mid-eighties. Lucky for me, we are not on this yellow tank for very long. The Gieseke farm is about 12 minutes from Black Frost and the driveway and tents are a welcome sight.
There are many different ways to hydrate in the summer-water, iced tea, soda, and beer. I do enjoy an ice-cold beer to combat the oppressive heat and humidity of a Minnesota summer. So, you can imagine my joy when I see several coolers packed to the gills with Schell’s beer! Well, I grab an ice-cold 16oz can of Schell’s Deer Brand lager. I know that we have a fair amount of whiskey yet to taste, so I am treading lightly.
From Field to Flask
The presentation begins with Black Frost Distilling Co-Founder, Jace Marti talking a little about the distillery and what is going to take place here at the farm. Jace talks about how they prioritize local ingredients to craft a fantastic product. Dr. Kevin Smith, from the University of Minnesota explains the breeding process for the grains in the field before we examine the crops.
Nate Gieseke leads us down to the field area and points out the barley and the wheat. This is all enlightening and the crowd is really into it. There is something extraordinary about being able to physically touch the crops that are grown for the purposes of such an exquisite craft spirit. Could this pastoral paradise become the norm for small, independent craft beverage makers? My pragmatic sense says no because it takes so much extra effort, time, and bandwidth. However, maybe the main obstacle is that people just need to see how it works. Perhaps trailblazers like Jace and Nate can show others the way and we can strengthen the bond between the farmers and the makers.
A Flight of fancy
We wrap up in the field and head back to the tent for some food and a bourbon tasting. The brats are from a local restaurant and they are perfect. The sauerkraut is super creamy and thicker than just a regular run-of-the-mill sauerkraut. I ask the guy serving up the food what is different about it. He told me that he simmers pork and some potatoes in the kraut to make it better. Wow. Life hack unlocked. The food hits the spot.
I am seated with some of the local farmers and enjoying their banter. They are speaking in great detail about how green everything is. Now, this is unlike just the default conversation setting that most Minnesotans have when it comes to small talk. These farmers talk about the weather as if they are plugged into a supercomputer that has all the weather on file for the last 50 years. For them, it is more than just a way to fill the time until they slap their knees and stand up to leave after saying, “Well, I suppose.” They are noting the positive or negative effects that the temperature and precipitation will have on their livelihoods.
As people are finishing up, visual organizers are passed out followed by pours of five different Black Frost Whiskeys. This is when the magic really starts to happen. We are led through a tasting where Jace speaks to the notes and flavors of each spirit. He interjects stories and answers questions as people ask. One common thread that I note is that each one is a bit different in flavor and aroma, but they are all incredibly smooth. There is not a one that has any rough edges that need rounding out.
The time has come for us to head back to the distillery. The bus ride back is a lot more jovial and talkative. People clearly enjoyed the sampling of spirits. As we pour out of the bus, I make sure to thank Jace, again, for the incredible experience and for taking time with me to chat. As I head back to my hotel, my brain is marveling at the connection between hearing Jace talk about getting his ingredients locally and the actual experience of walking through the fields where the grain grows. Black Frost Distilling is doing something incredibly rare. The process is way harder than just sourcing ingredients through a large supplier to get the best price. The steps that Nate and Jace have to take to create such a unique spirit are absolutely worth it.
If you liked this article and have enjoyed listening to the podcast, consider supporting A One Pint Stand through our Patreon. There are multiple levels of support to choose from, some of which come with great additional content and perks.